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When assembling a list of London’s finest eateries, one might expect familiar high-end establishments. However, situated high among these culinary titans is a modest salonu located in a distant corner of northern London.

A Unexpected Recognition

This small Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a influential food magazine. The honour has left the family completely shocked.

“I’m utterly surprised,” remarks a family member, referring to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their humble place achieving such a high position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

This little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its earlier feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the cuisine, and this eatery definitely delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in gradually. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is usually eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in less syrup than is typical, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced taste.

Outranking the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for below £25, comparable tasting menus at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

The Ethos of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I feel truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning beyond its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the greater meaning of this culinary triumph.